Summary of my Nepal Adventure (April 15 - May 5, 2012)

April 15: Left home at 4:15am to go to ILM. Route: Wilmington, NC; Atlanta, GA; Chicago, IL; Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates; New Delhi, India; Kathmandu, Nepal. Arrived at the hotel on April 17 at about 11:00am. Total travel time was 45 hours. Spent my first day resting and doing a little sightseeing. The next day I started the REI Trip Itinerary below.

Everest Lodge to Lodge Trek Summary by REI (April 18 - May 1, 2012)

Trip of the Year!
Our new Everest Lodge to Lodge Trek was named one of the ten 2011 best trips of the year by Outside Magazine!
The incomparable beauty of the Himalayas has long beckoned the world's adventurers to Nepal, and with over 25 years experience operating outstanding treks in the region, REI now offers a new way to experience the magic of Everest. Our lodge to lodge trekking route combines simple but comfortable accommodations with great hiking and must-see sites such as magnificent Tengboche Monastery and bustling Namche Bazaar while still allowing enough time to venture off the beaten path in favor of more intimate, remote villages seldom visited by most trekkers. Explore Khumjung, where Sir Edmund Hillary helped build the region's first school and whose monastery houses a mysterious relic - might it actually be the skull of the mythical Yeti? Trek onward to Thame, home to one of the region's oldest monasteries which appears to grow directly out of the mountainside. Trekking through these hidden Sherpa villages is like hiking through time as we experience daily life in these remote agricultural outposts as it has existed in many ways unchanged for decades. Then, trek higher through vast rhododendron forests and enter Tengboche Monastery, the largest and most active in the region, where evening brings the strange and hypnotic sounds of traditional chant, thundering drums and the great resounding horns of the 40+ devout Buddhist monks who live, study and worship here. Throughout our trek we encounter spectacular views of Mount Everest and other legendary Himalayan peaks before ultimately returning to Kathmandu, where we have even more time to discover the gentle and colorful Buddhist and Hindu cultures of this magnificent and ancient city. Experience the awe-inspiring presence of the world's highest peaks and soak in the magic of Nepal and the Everest region on this truly unique and unforgettable lodge to lodge trek with REI.

Trip Itinerary:

Day 1 (April 18)
Our trip begins today in Kathmandu. After clearing immigration and customs, you are greeted by our outstanding staff. We transfer to the hotel (Hotel Marshyangdi) and the afternoon is left open to rest and explore. Today, you'll have time to settle into the hotel, explore the bustling streets of Thamel on your own, or inquire with our host in Kathmandu about an optional walking tour. Meals are on your own.

Day 2 (April 19)
On your first full day in Kathmandu, enjoy a day long guided tour of the ancient cities of the Kathmandu valley. Nepal is rich in religious diversity and exploring numerous significant Buddhist and Hindu shrines and temples is an excellent introduction to the area. At Swayambhunath (or "the Monkey Temple") gilded Buddhist and Hindu shrines perch atop cliffs overlooking the valley where monkeys and local dogs exchange chatter and pilgrims come to pay respect. Durbar Square in Patan boasts some of the most spectacular palace temples and pagodas in the valley and teems with significance to local Hindus. We'll also visit Boudhanath, the largest and perhaps most impressive Buddhist temple in Kathmandu, along with the adjoining monastery. Time allowing, we'll visit a very interesting Tibetan Refugee Carpet center in Jawalakhel before returning to our hotel in Thamel.There will be time for a short rest before dinner, which is on your own tonight, then look forward to a thorough orientation meeting this evening. Breakfast included.

Day 3 (April 20)
Near or before dawn today (around 6:30 a.m.) your group will transfer together to the airport where we board a Twin Otter plane flight to Lukla (9,300'). While having lunch, gear and supplies for the next 10 days will be loaded onto our support animals. The trek begins with a leisurely and scenic three-hour hike down to the riverside village of Phakding. Along the route we enjoy our first views of ornate Mani stones, onto which devout Sherpas have inscribed prayers often accented in bright contrasting paint. Repeatedly reciting this prayer, "Om mani padme hum" is a virtuous deed believed by Sherpa people to positively influence the next life. Prayer flags stream in the breeze as we cross sturdy suspension bridges over the roaring Dudh Kosi river to arrive at our first lodge this evening in Phakding at around 8,600'. Our Phakding lodge features rooms with large windows and attached baths in each room with showers. We also enjoy a spacious stove-heated dining room that floods with morning sunlight. Relax on the patio with a beverage and enjoy the sounds of the river below. All rooms on our trek are furnished with twin beds. All meals included on trek days 3-11.
Trekking: 3-4 hours; about 4-4.5 miles. Elevation loss: 717'.

Day 4 (April 21)
As we continue trekking today, expect the air to be cool and the trail to be shaded for a couple of hours before the sun reaches the bottom of the Dudh Kosi river valley. The trail occasionally wanders past farmhouses and crop fields, through small villages and past giant prayer wheels, and criss-crossing the river on sturdy suspension bridges. Long needle pine trees and stunning views of massive Himalayan peaks like Kangtega and Thamserku line the route as we approach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. An early lunch today prepares us for a steep 1,300' ascent to the village of Namche Bazaar (11,300'), a good day's workout of five hours or more. Namche is the world's highest marketplace, the largest Sherpa village in the Khumbu and the jumping-off point for many Everest expeditions. In our lodge in Namche Bazaar, guests enjoy private bathrooms and comfortable twin beds. Showers are available here as well.
Trekking: 6 hours; about 4.5 miles. Elevation gain: 2,700'.

Day 5 (April 22)
Awaken to yak bells and a sunrise illuminating the 20,000' mountains that surround us! Our neighbors include Kwangde (21,741'), Thamserku (21,679'), and Kangtega (22,240'). Though this is a layover day, excitement is in the air, as a slow-ascent day hike to the world's highest hotel, the Everest View at 12,400', will help us acclimatize and provide our first breath-taking views of Mt. Everest and other legendary Himalayan peaks, including Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We can enjoy afternoon tea and snacks at the hotel's outdoor patio as we gaze out at the panorama, then we'll return to Namche Bazaar for one more night in our comfortable lodge before continuing higher into the Himalayas.
Trekking: 4-5 hours; about 3-3.5 miles. Elevation gain/loss is 1,100'.

Day 6 (April 23)
Hiking out of Namche Bazaar, we traverse the lower slopes of Khumbi Yulha, a 19,230' mountain held sacred by the Sherpa people. We'll descend to the river once again then ascend to Tengboche Monastery at 12,700'. Tengboche is surrounded by views of the snowy Himalayas and hosts the main and most impressive Tibetan Buddhist temple in the Khumbu region with an exceptional view of Everest's pyramid summit. Everyone living at the gompa is in some way associated with the operations of this very important religious center. Along the way, we'll keep an eye out for the Impeyan pheasant, Nepal's national bird, which is easily one of the most beautiful birds in the world with over two dozen different iridescent colors shining from its plumage. Tonight we visit the monastery for an opportunity to experience this unique and remote monastic life before retiring to our nearby simple lodge. While it is much more rustic than our lodge in Namche (bathroom and shower facilities are shared), this lodge is ideally situated adjacent to the monastery - an impressive and truly memorable high point on our trek that is not to be missed!
Trekking: 5 hours; 5.5 miles. Elevation loss: 450', elevation gain: 1,850'

Day 7 (April 24)
Relax around Tengboche in the morning hours as the morning sun slowly creeps across the high ridgeline where our lodge and the monastery are situated. Then, we begin our descent of the route followed earlier as we hike back to the Dudh Kosi river, then turn to the west and begin our ascent to the Sherpa village of Khumjung at 12,402'. We again hope for the rare treat to glimpse the Impeyen pheasant here. Khumjung village is where Sir Edmund Hillary, credited with Everest's first ascent, built the first school in the Khumbu Region and Khumjung's monastery houses a famed and mysterious relic of the Khumbu, a dome-shaped object covered in hair believed by many to be the skull of the Yeti! We'll spend one night at a small lodge off the beaten path where few other trekkers stay overnight. Here, Sherpa farm life endures as it has for ages beneath the picturesque green roofs and inside the white hand-carved stone walls of this very traditional village. Water conservation is critical in this small village, so please use water wisely.
Trekking: 4 - 5 hours; 5 miles. Elevation loss: 1,850', elevation gain: 1,600'.

Day 8 (April 25)
Leaving Khumjung, we travel west beneath the rock spires and massive boulders of Khumbi Yulha en route to the unspoilt hidden village of Thame (13,100'). Thame is home to one of the oldest monasteries in the region which appears to grow directly out of the mountain behind it. This day is mostly a gentle uphill grade as we pass through a number of small villages rarely visited by trekkers, then cross the thundering Bhote Kosi river as it bursts through the narrow gorge. Our final hour of trekking is a steep uphill section. Jahrl or Tahr mountain goats are frequently spotted on the mountain slopes above the trail. Few trekkers stray far enough from the main trekking routes of the Khumbu to experience this picturesque place, an important waypoint on the former salt trade route between India, Nepal and Tibet and the childhood home of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary on the first ascent of Everest. We'll spend the night at a lodge in Thame, again off the standard trekking route where we'll see even fewer foreign visitors. In Thame, we enjoy lodging with twin beds, shared bathroom and shower facilities.
Trekking: 5-6 hours; 6 miles. Elevation gain: 1,200'.

Day 9 (April 26)
We awake in Thame to glorious views of Thamserku and Kangtega. Thame offers very few services for trekkers aside from a few lodges and campgrounds; this provides a unique glimpse into life in the Khumbu region prior to the influx of adventure travelers that began decades ago. After exploring Thame's very old cliff-side monastery we begin trekking down to Namche Bazaar. Passing through the villages of Somde, Thamo, Tscheso, and Phurte, we'll arrive back in Namche Bazaar and stay at another comfortable lodge with private baths.
Trekking: 4-5 hours; 6 miles. Elevation loss: 1,200'. Optional hike to Thame Monastery adds about 1.5 hours round trip.

Day 10 (April 27)
Departing Namche today, we retrace our route back to Phakding. We will descend more than 1,300' today, passing through small villages and fields along the way and enjoying our final views of the big peaks from the trail. The setting in Phakding is serene along the Dudh Koshi river, nestled beneath the cliffs with high rugged mountains rising from the valley floor. We'll rest by the warm stove in the dining room and enjoy another great dinner prepared fresh by our cooks. In our Phakding lodge we'll once again enjoy private showers and bathrooms.
Trekking: 5-6 hours; about 4.5 miles. Elevation loss: 2,700'.

Day 11 (April 28)
Our final day of trekking brings us to Lukla. Tonight we'll have a real celebration at our final lodge and enjoy music and dancing, great food, local drink and the companionship of our support staff, who by now have become familiar faces and friends as well. Our lodge here features rooms with twin beds and private baths with showers. Additionally, the bar/dining room is ideal for celebrating, dining and dancing. We'll bid farewell to our amazing trekking crew before turning in for a good night's sleep.
Trekking: 4 hours; about 4-4.5 miles. Elevation gain: 600'.

Day 12 (April 29)
Very early this morning we will check out of our lodge and board a flight to Kathmandu. Upon our arrival in Kathmandu, we are met by our staff and transferred to our hotel in the Thamel District. The remainder of the day is free. There are many more opportunities for exploration, souvenir shopping and sightseeing. Breakfast is included.
Note about flights: Most treks run during the best weather conditions of the year and there is an extra day at the end of the trek to allow for poor weather, sightseeing and shopping. Flights to and from Lukla are not always dependable; weather conditions may cause flight cancellations. Delays are possible any time of year but are more typical on the summer departures

Day 13 (April 30)
Today is a free day for sightseeing. In the Kathmandu Valley, there are plenty of amazing things yet to be seen. Talk with your guide about arranging a special trip to the medieval villages of Bungamati and Khokana or consider visiting the stunning Durbar Square in ancient Bhaktapur (additional sightseeing tour costs not included in trip price). Or, you may wish to reserve today for final shopping needs - there are so many strange and wonderful things to discover in Kathmandu and you'll find unique and special gifts to share with loved ones from your unforgettable journey to Nepal. Breakfast included.

Day 14 (May 1)
This morning we transfer to the airport for departures back to the US. Breakfast included. (For me I started my Chitwan National Park adventure.)

Chitwan National Park: (May 1 - May 3, 2012)

On May 1, I flew from Katmandu to Bharatpur followed by a long (1.5 hr), hot (103 degrees F), dusty ride to the Machan Wildlife Resort (no AC, no fans, no hot water, no bugs, very few wild animals). While there we went on several elephant rides, a jeep ride, dugout canoe river ride, elephant washing, bird watching walk and some average meals. On our excursions, we occasionally saw some wild life including several deer, two rhinos, several interesting birds and the local elephants! After our morning excursion, I flew back to Kathmandu early afternoon on May 3.

May 4: Left hotel at 12:44pm to go to KTM. Route: Kathmandu, Nepal; New Delhi, India; London, England; Atlanta, GA; Wilmington, NC; Arrived at my home May 5 at about 11:59pm. Total travel time was 45 hours.